Well, Russia was amazing. A bit overwhelming at times, but a great trip. I just wish I'd kept up my Russian after I left school - it really is a beast of a language
Started in Moscow, where I met up with a very dear friend who kindly showed me round the city. Huge changes from when I was last over there, in the dying embers of the Soviet era. The amount of on-going building in the city centre was astonishing, and the speed with which it has turned into a "Western" city was also striking. The quality of food, both in Moscow and Petersburg, was terrific this time round. For a westerner it was very affordable as well, though I gather this isn't the case on local wages.
Some things don't change, though. My friend's district (Sviblovo, north of the city centre) was without hot water for THREE WEEKS, due to "repairs". And just because things are less outwardly grey doesn't mean that the end of communism has left everyone as a winner.
Did all the touristy things, Red Square, Kremlin, Tretyakov Gallery, several monasteries ... all very impressive. A big highlight was the monastry at Sergiev Posad - huge, and very beautiful. Also found myself in a couple of clubs "enjoying" the Russian live music scene .... sadly the native pop music might be the worst in Europe, possibly helped by a less than snappy, melodious language. Did unearth some interesting rock and some humorous heavy metal, though. Also found a wonderful music market with absurdly cheap recordings: 3CD packs of operas for less than £10, recent releases (including the latest My Dying Bride!) for about £2.50 and MP3s for about £1.50. So I'm now the proud owner of the complete recorded works of Belinda Carlisle on an MP3 (but also Moonspell, Nightwish and Nick Cave, before you disown me).
Out of Moscow I spent a few nights on trains, going up to Petrozavodsk and St Petersburg. This was a solo m*****n, which stretched my Russian a long way and reignited my suspicion of public service in Russia. For a warm and generous race, the Slavs turn strangely Parisien if you put them behind a desk. But that could be my rank prejudice.
Petrozavodsk is in Karelia, on the shores of Lake Onega. The major attraction is the architectural museum at Kizki Island, which was staggering. The highlight is the 22-domed wooden cathedral, reputedly built without any nails (yeah, right). Has to be seen to be believed. But, being 13 hours from Moscow the rest of the town is still stuck in the Gorbachev era: grey is very much the colour. A shame: it's potentially quite a pretty town in a beautiful setting, but without a hugely improved infrastructure and better access to the countryside that would attract visitors it will struggle to maximise that.
Petersburg, which I last visited in 92, was as lovely as ever, so I went on a Dostoevsky trail. It's hard to reconcile the city of Raskolnikov with an emerging capitalist mecca, especially on a bright sunny day, but I tried! I also discovered that while getting pissed ensures a decent night's sleep on an overnight train, it means a very horrible hangover with one smelly toilet shared between 30 passengers
So there you go ... I'll spare you worst excesses of eating and drinking, or of chatting up random Russians. Or maybe spare myself, who knows ...